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The pumps are self-priming pumps so as long as your sealer is diluted properly and you have ample sealer in your tank your sprayer will self-prime. Always make sure that air isn’t sucking into the pump or you will lose prime and your pump will get quite hot potentially compromising the main seal which leads to a leaking pump.

If the sealer is too thick the pump will struggle with a prime as it’s like sucking a thick milkshake through a small straw.

Make sure your sealer is diluted at 20% to 30% at all times.

Check out this related article: priming your spray system.

If you’re using the sealer within the week it can remain in the tank. Just periodically agitate the material in the tank to prevent it from settling and starting to cure.

If you want to remove the sealer from your main tank and store the sealer, we recommend taking off your spray tip and starting your unit up and then pumping the sealer into a drum or separate storage tank. Once this is done, flush your main tank out with water.

You can flush out your spray system by connecting the transfer kit or suction hose to a bucket or drum of water.

Simply turn your unit to Spray mode and spray the sealer back out into the drum or bucket that you got it from originally.

For more details, see this blog post: https://blog.asphaltkingdom.com/priming-spray-system

Our spray systems work only with Refined Coal Tar (Commercial Grade) Water-Based Sealer or Asphalt Emulsion Sealer and we have specifically tested our systems with the coal tar sealer we sell on our site.

If you use:

• a sealer with sand, 
• or oil based sealer,

the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair and you may even blow the engine.

If you use the wrong sealer your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck. 

Yes it does.

This system includes a 50 foot 3/4" diameter hose, rated to 275psi.

Yes, but not out of the box - you need to purchase the optional Tote Connection Kit.

Yes, simply close the main valve on the bottom of the tote. Disconnect the suction hose from the bottom of the tote and then put that end of the hose in a 5 gallon pail and turn the valve above the pump to spray mode and then start the engine. The pump will suck the water up out of the 5 gallon pail into the pump and down the spray hose out the gun and then spray the water out of the gun back into the 5 gallon pail you just sucked up and you can recirculate it in the pail like this while having the engine on low idle.

We cannot warranty a system if sand has been used in it as it will wear and ruin the seals. We do however, suggest applying the sand by hand with a grass seeding machine after applying a thin wet coat of sealer and then applying a second coat of sealer over top of the sand layer as a final coat.

300 gallon metal tanks with sweep agitation blades mostly move the product contents near the outside walls of the storage tank. The heavy paddles usually rotate very slowly and are driven by cumbersome gears, chains, and pulleys. The product near the center of the tank may never even get mixed at all!

To observe this, try this revealing experiment:

First take a can of paint, secondly take a paint stir stick. Now stir the contents using the stir stick only along the inside edge of the paint can slowly. Try to emulate the speed of a paddle moving around the inside of a storage tank. What happens to the contents in the center of the paint can? Hardly moves or mixes at all doesn't it?

The re-circulation system that comes with the AK Tote, Drum, Portable, 130 and 230 Sprayers is absolutely amazing. Your sealer mixes up in 3 to 4 minutes and ready to apply.

This usually happens due to the tip clogging or if the tip is worn out past a usable point. Make sure to clean your spray tips after every sealcoat job. Buy new spray tips and invest in a filter kit to prevent clogged spray tips.

One of the RynoWorx Crack Repair Machines' greatest advantages is how much bigger the nozzle is than the competition's.  That means it's less prone to plugging up when you're on the job.

Another innovation is that it is fully removable for cleaning. Start by heating it up with your accessory torch.  Using a pair of heat-proof gloves or vice grips, slide the valve right out and let the excess material flow out. This will leave a clear passage for the next crack repair job you are doing.  

You can not melt the thermoplastic with the melter machine.

Possible Causes

• 1) The fuel level could be too low
• 2) The propane cylinder valve could be partially or fully closed, which can restrict fuel flow
• 3)The pressure regulator valve may be in the off position or may not be providing sufficient fuel flow

Known Solutions

• 1) Check and refill your fuel tank
• 2) Ensure your fuel valve is fully open. You can do this by turning the knob fully counter-clockwise
• 3) You may increase the pressure from the regulator by turning the knob clockwise

It's good to clean it out completely after 5 uses; otherwise, there is a possibility of charring rubber in areas where there may be multiple layers of rubber built up. To clean it, heat it up and scrape it out with a scraper on a broom handle. Then start fresh with a brand new box of crack fill.

The 25ft hose that comes with the heat lance is ergonomically designed for easy maneuvering and easy access to cracks. Due to the size of the compressor, a 25ft hose is the max as we lose too much psi at 50ft and would not provide enough volume of air to work. The machine cannot be modified as designed.

Yes, replacement parts such as quick connect, hose fitting, hose, regulator and tire assembly are also available.

This video shows you step by step how to assemble the RY10 Pro or RY10 Elite Crackfill Melter Applicator.

Every time you use the system, flush the sprayer, hose, and gun out with water when you finish painting. Since these systems only use water-based paints, keeping them clean couldn't be simpler! Put the tips in a jar of Titan's Tip Clean to keep them ready for your next job.

Why upgrade to the Caster Wheel? Time. Although the 850 has a turnable front wheel, it's a manual pull-pin, which requires you to stop painting, go to the front of the machine, and adjust the pin, then go back to the machine and start painting the lines again. With the cable caster, it works like brakes on a mountain bike - squeeze from the handlebar and turn on the fly.

No, this unit is not a self propel line striper.

All line-stripers are shipped with engine oil, check the fill level and if it is satisfactory, proceed.

Use regular unleaded fuel for all Titan line striping machines, such as automotive gasoline that has a pump octane number of 86 or higher, or that has a research octane number of 91 or higher. Unleaded fuel produces fewer engine and spark plug deposit,s and extends the life of the exhaust system components.

Never use stale or contaminated gasoline or an oil/gasoline mixture. Avoid getting dirt, dust, or water in the fuel tank.

Mix the drum of sealer thoroughly as-is. Then take a 5 gallon pail and scoop out two buckets worth of sealer and store it in 5 gallon pails or another empty drum or tank. Then add in two pails of water into the drum. Make sure you do this in a gravel parking lot or area where you don’t have to worry about spillage. Also be sure to have a 5 gallon pail of water and some sponges or rags handy for any cleanup.

We carry commercial-grade DOT spec sealer with a coverage rate of 100 square feet per gallon.

• 5,500 square feet per 55 gallon drum. 
• 22,000 square ft per pallet of sealer and 
• 27,500 square feet of coverage per 275 gallon tote

Our spray systems work only with Refined Coal Tar (Commercial Grade) Water-Based Sealer or Asphalt Emulsion Sealer and we have specifically tested our systems with the coal tar sealer we sell on our site.

If you use:

• a sealer with sand, 
• or oil based sealer,

the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair and you may even blow the engine.

If you use the wrong sealer your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck. 

Temperatures must be 55 degrees or warmer for 3 hours after application for it to dry properly. Cure times will be longer in cooler conditions. The hotter it is, the faster the water evaporates from the sealer and the dry time can be as fast as 30 minutes. Try not to apply if hotter than 105°F.

Ideally sealer should dry for a couple of hours before it rains. It may need more time if it's very cloudy and humid.

There is no need for two coats, but if you're doing two coats, do them a week apart so the sealer has time to cure completely.

No. DSF is the “Quick Drive” all in one additive. DSF accelerates cure time chemically. All other additives still require the suns passive curing process to dry and eventually cure sealcoating.

No. DSF does not contain any acrylic or brittle polyvinyl resins like some products. DSF rubberizes the seal coat as it cures where hardening additives cause the seal coat to become brittle which causes premature cracking or flaking.

We do not recommend using any other additives when using DSF. DSF is an all in one additive offering all the features and more of other additives combined. Your money would be wasted to use two products for the same result.

Your sealer comes Ready to Use so you do not really need to dilute unless needed to. If needed - like during the hot days of summer, you can dilute up to 5-10%.

Here is the recommended ratio:

Sealer Concentrate: 100 Gallons
FSA : 2- 5 Gallons
Water: 10 to 30 Gallons

If your spray system is designed to work with sand (AK's Drum, Tote, Portable, 130 and 230 gallon systems do NOT work with sand) then you can also add:

Sand: 300-500lbs

In cold weather increase the amount of FSA to 7-10 gallons.

• 6.7 linear ft of coverage per pound of crackfiller. This means you get 200 linear ft per 30 LBS box of crackfiller.
• 7,200 linear feet per half pallet of thirty six 30 LBS boxes
• 15,000 linear feet with a pallet including seventy five 30 LBS boxes.

You can fill cracks as long as the pavement is 40°F or warmer. If it is colder but you need to fill cracks, use a heat lance to heat the pavement up before you apply it.

The best temperature for heating your material to is 380 - 400°F (193 - 204°C) ; any higher than 400°F may severely damage product. Prolonged heating can also damage the product - heat it only when you are ready to apply it.

Our crack filler has a shelf life of 10 years unopened. It's why so many of our customers choose to take advantage our half-pallet and pallet offerings: the savings are so high it is worth storing them until you need them. It can be stored outside; just cover it with weather-resistant pallet wrap and keep it out of the sun.

At that temperature, expect it to dry in 3-4 hours. It will continue to cure for another 24-48 hours, after which time you can sealcoat over it to help with durability.

Gator Patch is just a patch, not a resurfacer. It is designed to patch areas with cracks up to 1" deep. You would save money if you use Gator Patch on alligator cracks then sealcoat everywhere else.

You can put them down in either order; however if you put the Gator Patch down first and then sealcoat over top of it for a more uniform finish.

It's like peanut butter on toast: you want a layer that covers pavement and seeps into the cracks, but not so thick that it's all Gator Patch and no pavement. The longer your strokes, the more visually appealing it will be when it dries. Use a hard trowel or a stiff squeegee to smooth it on evenly.

Rubberized Hot Pour Filler is a better solution for this problem because it has better expansion properties due to its higher rubber content. Rubber crack filler will expand and contract with heat and cold; Gator Patch does not have the same flexibility, so using it to fill cracks could allow moisture to seep into your asphalt's foundation.

As soon as the crackfill comes back to ambient temperature (same temperature as the air around it), you can go ahead and sealcoat.

No, our locations are all fabrication plants and shipping facilities. We do not have staff and showrooms to accommodate you if you want to come and visit. You can however see all of our products and equipment on our website and we will be glad to speak with you in person regarding our products and equipment and provide detailed quotes.

It depends on the order and carrier company that we asked to ship that order. For freight delivery, it usually use an 18-wheeler truck. Small orders only use a van or small truck.

So sorry that you had to go through such trouble. Humidity can have a huge effect on how long sealer cures. If, after 24 hours and the sealer still feels tacky to the touch, it has not cured sufficiently. If it hasn't had ample time to cure, then it will bleed.

We recommend at least 24 hours of dry hot weather to allow the sealer to cure properly. If the weather is humid, overcast and moist, it will be harder for sealer to cuter, which can lead to bleeding through the paint.

Yes, we can, charges may vary. However, if it has been shipped, we won't be able to reschedule it.

Asphalt Kingdom ships from their locations in the U.S.A, and in Canada. Having locations in Canada and the U.S.A. allows us to avoid customs fees and duty delays, and timely headaches.

•  Auburn Hills, MI, USA 
• Plymouth, MI, USA 
• Atlanta, GA, USA 
• Dallas, TX, USA 
• Detroit, MI, USA 
• Baltimore, MD, USA 
• Greensboro, NC, USA 
• Boston, MA, USA 
• Memphis, TN, USA 
• Chicago, IL, USA 
• Tampa, FL, USA 
• New Dundee, ON, Canada 
• Drummondville, QC, Canada