Mix the drum of sealer thoroughly as-is. Then take a 5 gallon pail and scoop out two buckets worth of sealer and store it in 5 gallon pails or another empty drum or tank. Then add in two pails of water into the drum. Make sure you do this in a gravel parking lot or area where you don’t have to worry about spillage. Also be sure to have a 5 gallon pail of water and some sponges or rags handy for any cleanup.
We carry commercial-grade DOT spec sealer with a coverage rate of 100 square feet per gallon.
Our spray systems work only with Refined Coal Tar (Commercial Grade) Water-Based Sealer or Asphalt Emulsion Sealer and we have specifically tested our systems with the coal tar sealer we sell on our site.
If you use:
the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair and you may even blow the engine.
If you use the wrong sealer your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck.
Temperatures must be 55 degrees or warmer for 3 hours after application for it to dry properly. Cure times will be longer in cooler conditions. The hotter it is, the faster the water evaporates from the sealer and the dry time can be as fast as 30 minutes. Try not to apply if hotter than 105°F.
Ideally sealer should dry for a couple of hours before it rains. It may need more time if it's very cloudy and humid.
There is no need for two coats, but if you're doing two coats, do them a week apart so the sealer has time to cure completely.
No. DSF is the “Quick Drive” all in one additive. DSF accelerates cure time chemically. All other additives still require the suns passive curing process to dry and eventually cure sealcoating.
No. DSF does not contain any acrylic or brittle polyvinyl resins like some products. DSF rubberizes the seal coat as it cures where hardening additives cause the seal coat to become brittle which causes premature cracking or flaking.
We do not recommend using any other additives when using DSF. DSF is an all in one additive offering all the features and more of other additives combined. Your money would be wasted to use two products for the same result.
Asphalt is like a sponge which can only absorb so much sealer. Thicker isn't better if it doesn't get absorbed. We recommend between 25-30% dilution to get good even coverage at maximum efficiency.
Here is the recommended ratio:Sealer Concentrate: 100 Gallons
If your spray system is designed to work with sand (AK's Drum, Tote, Portable, 130 and 230 gallon systems do NOT work with sand) then you can also add:Sand: 300-500lbs
In cold weather increase the amount of FSA to 7-10 gallons.
The best way to do this is with a drum mixer that you attach to a drill. It's faster and more thorough than using a broomstick or other long-handled implement. We have one available here: Drum Mixer.
The cause of this is over-agitating the sealer. Only recirculate your sealer for 2-3 minutes max at the beginning of the day and maybe for a minute at the beginning of each job.
No, unfortunately - asphalt sealer is not a glue or binder. It's a sealant that is a protective layer to limit damage from elements, traffic and general wear. You need to add a binder directly to the recycled asphalt when they are doing the work.
The reason to dilute it are to get more coverage rate for your dollar. If you're looking for the best outcome for your job and you are trying to meet a DOT Spec, use it as shipped (already diluted 20%). However, if the asphalt is in pretty good shape, you can put an additional 20% of water (11 gallons per 55-gallon drum) in it to get more coverage. You would still maintain a commercial standard up to that level. We don't recommend any dilution past that amount.
You can put the rapid set into the material, but the material needs to be used completely within 48 hours. After you have finished using it, do a fresh water flush as usual.
Yes the Universal Asphalt Degreaser Cleaner can be used to remove pine sap on asphalt shingles using a power washer. To use, dilute 1 part degreaser cleaner with 3 parts water.
Whether you used liquid cold-pour crack filler or rubberized hot-pour crack filler, it is best to let the product dry completely before applying sealer. Depending on ambient and surface temperatures, the actual drying time of the crack fill can vary. We usually recommend allowing crack fill to dry for 24 to 48 hours before applying sealer.
The short answer is Coal Tar is longer-lasting and more durable than Asphalt Emulsion. For a more detailed explanation, see this article. https://americanpavementsealcoating.com/2018/03/24/coal-tar-vs-asphalt-emulsion-whats-the-difference-anyway/
Coal tar sealer’s main ingredient is just that, coal tar. Coal tar is a thick, black liquid that is a byproduct of the distillation of bituminous coal (usually in the electricity production industry).
Coal tar is mixed with additional minerals dependent upon the manufacturer.
Additionally, all coal tar sealers must be mixed with water.
Yes, Sealcoat can be painted (just think about the painted parking stalls in a parking lot!!). The paint should be a high-quality latex (water-based) paint. Less expensive paints may exhibit bleed through or discoloration of the paint. Any colors can be utilized. It is best to wait a few days after the Sealcoat is applied before painting.