Spray Systems

The sealer spray systems are self-priming pumps, so as long as your sealer is diluted properly and you have ample sealer in your tank, your sprayer will self-prime. Always make sure that air isn’t sucking into the pump or you will lose prime and your pump will get quite hot potentially compromising the main seal which leads to a leaking pump.

If the sealer is too thick the pump will struggle with a prime as it’s like sucking a thick milkshake through a small straw.

Make sure your sealer is diluted at 20% to 30% at all times.

Check out this related article: priming your spray system.

If you’re using the sealer within the week, it can remain in the tank. Just periodically agitate the material in the tank to prevent it from settling and starting to cure. If you want to remove the sealer from your main tank and store the sealer, we recommend taking off your spray tip and starting your unit up and then pumping the sealer into a drum or separate storage tank. Once this is done, flush your main tank out with water.

You can flush out your spray system by connecting the transfer kit or suction hose to a bucket or drum of water.

Simply turn your unit to Spray mode and spray the sealer back out into the drum or bucket that you got it from originally.

For more details, see this blog post.

Our spray systems work only with Asphalt Emulsion Sealer. If you use: a sealer with sand,  or an oil-based sealer, the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair, and you may even blow the engine. If you use the wrong sealer, your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck.

Yes, the portable spray system does.

Honda GX160: 0.58 Liter (0.61 US qt, 0.51 Imp qt). SAE 10W-30 is recommended for general use.

Launtop LT210: 0.60 Liter (0.63 US qt, 0.52 Imp qt). SAE 5W-40 mineral oil is recommended for general use.

Always confirm with your engine manual for temperature-specific viscosity guidance.

These systems can be used with specific brands of Asphalt Emulsion sealer. The systems cannot spray sealer with sand. Approved Sealers: Asphalt Emulsion (AE): GemSeal, Sealmaster, and Neyra sealers only without the addition of any latex additives.

We can't guarantee the performance of the systems with other people's sealer because they may add additives that we don't know about that could affect the performance of the pump, hoses, circulation, etc. We use the industry's best-quality sealer and we can assure you that you will not have any issues with it; if you wish to use another brand of sealer please contact the manufacturer to guarantee performance with your spray system.

If a chunk of sealer, a stone, or a rock is blocking the output of the tip, it would create a blockage in the tip that would create a trickle or a pressurized multi-stream spray. Sealer sitting in the tank for a long period of the tank can dry on the side walls and form flakes. These flakes can fall into the rest of the sealer and get suctioned through to your spray tip, causing a blockage.

We heavily advise investing in a filter kit, as it filters out unwanted chunks. See more troubleshooting tips for if you lose pressure at the spray tip.

Pump priming is simple. As long as there is constant liquid reaching the pump, it will prime and pump. The less air in the suction hoses the better the pump will prime and work.

When transferring sealer from drums to the main spray system tank make sure the transfer kit hose is completely full of water. Connect the barrel pipe to the transfer kit and then the other end of the transfer kit to the suction port of the pump and make sure the transfer kit hose remains full of water. Put the barrel pipe into the sealer drum. Make sure the ball valve handles are in transfer mode. Start your motor and begin your transfer.

The pump only needs to be primed the first time you use it or if you haven't used your pump for longer than 24 hours. Use 1 gallon of water in the pump through the pump orifice allows the machine to immediately push that liquid through, creating enough force to start pulling sealer from the tank.

If air is hitting your pump at anytime it will lose prime and the chances of burning up your seals are high. Make sure water or sealer is always reaching your pump.

If the pump is leaking between the engine and the motor, it's usually caused when the pump overheats, due to running the pump dry. The main master seal heats up and shrivels up, creating small cracks. Always make sure you run some kind of liquid in your pump, whether it be sealer or water during priming.

Priming is simple. The pump primes when liquid is reaching it, and less air in the suction hose helps.

• Prime it the first time you use it, or anytime it has sat more than 24 hours.
• Fill the pump with about 1 gallon of water through the pump orifice, then start the motor to push liquid through. Once it is moving fluid, it will begin pulling sealer from the tank.
• Keep liquid to the pump at all times. Running the pump dry can damage seals.

If you’re transferring from drums: Make sure the transfer kit hose is completely full of water first, connect it to the pump suction port, and keep the barrel pipe submerged while transferring.