AK130 Sealcoat Sprayer for Residential Sealcoating
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Make it a Biz
FAQsJumpstart or scale your sealcoating business with the AK130 Residential Sealcoat Sprayer. An easy to operate tank to pump system for professional sealcoat applications. Pump sealcoat on asphalt for brush applications or spray sealer with pressure.
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- Solid steel 130 gallon tank
- 4-stroke engine for reliability and performance
- Sprays asphalt emulsion or coal tar sealcoat
Free Shipping to commercial address with a dock or forkliftAvailability: In stock
Specialize in Residential Sealcoating? Choose the AK130 Residential Sealcoat Sprayer!
The AK130 Sealcoat Sprayer is the ideal setup for someone looking to start a driveway sealing company or an existing contractor looking to add steady income streams to their existing business. This sealcoating machine will easily fit in the back of a light pickup truck or small trailer.
- Ideal for small driveway sealing contractor
- 130-gallon professional steel tank
- Carries up to 130 gallons to cover 13,000 square feet
- Will fit comfortably in a half-ton pickup truck or trailer
- A spray gun and three tips are included
At .25¢ per square foot, you can generate $3,250 in revenue. In as little as 1.5 tanks, you can pay for this unit and still have money in your pocket.
What Other Customers Say:
“The people at Asphalt Kingdom are amazing, definitely a 10 out of 10 experience getting to know & do business with them.“
John Vanzyl
Owner, Xtreme Sealcoating
Tank: We’ve designed this residential sealcoating unit with you in mind from top to bottom. This unit features a puncture-proof 11-gauge steel tank that won’t warp with pressure buildup or weather fluctuation like lower-value poly tanks. We’ve manufactured this sealcoating machine with a large double splash manhole opening; this allows for easy cleaning and maintenance of your tank as well as spill prevention during transport. You may also use the manhole for transferring sealer or adding water to meet proper dilution.
Engine & Pump: This unit comes standard with an engine and pump with professional-grade Viton seals. The included spray gun makes cutting in the edges of the driveway simple and gives you precise control over the amount of sealer that is applied with a streak-free finish.
Coverage: The 492 Litre (130 Gallon) steel tank, when full, can cover close to 13,000 square feet.
Sealer Types: Our systems spray water-based or acrylic sealer only. This sealcoat spray system does not work with petroleum or oil-based sealer, gilsonite, or any asphalt sealcoat with sand in it. If you are purchasing sealer from anywhere other than Asphalt Kingdom, please check with your sealer manufacturer to ensure compatibility. We are unable to guarantee compatibility between our residential sealcoating equipment and any sealer other than our own since we have no way of verifying the manufacturing process, abrasiveness, or viscosity of the material.
How to Know if You Can Seal Over Oil Spots – The Key Test
Before applying sealer on a driveway with oil stains, you need to be sure the surface can actually hold the sealcoat. Oil can prevent bonding, leading to peeling, flaking, or early failure. Here’s a simple on-site method to check:
The Key Test
This quick test helps prevent adhesion problems and ensures your residential sealcoating lasts, especially on driveways with oil contamination.
A popular upgrade for our asphalt sealcoating spray systems is the Fast Sealer Transfer Kit. This kit plugs directly into all Asphalt Kingdom Spray Systems and is required to load sealer from any drum or tote. Spray wand included.
Note: Do not use sand with this spray system.
Frequently Asked Questions
While the exact time frame depends on traffic, climate, and surface preparation, sealcoating typically lasts two to three years. Regular reapplications can lengthen this time frame.
Most charge anywhere between $0.15 and $0.35 per square foot, adjusting rates based on the driveway’s condition and the difficulty of the job. If you charge an average of $0.25 per square foot, that means earning $3,250 for a 13,000-square-foot job!
Yes, using a sprayer like the AK130 Sealcoat Sprayer ensures even, streak-free coverage. Plus, it’s much faster than applying sealcoat material by hand, especially when you have a big job or multiple smaller jobs.
| Shipping Weight | 437 lb |
| Shipping Length | 51.5" |
| Shipping Width | 33.75" |
| Shipping Height | 40" |
| Pump and Engine | |
|---|---|
| Pump Type |
Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump
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| Engine |
Briggs & Stratton 12S 6.5 hp Gas Engine
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| Tank and Spray | |
| Tank |
|
| Hose |
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| Wand |
|
| Capacity and Weight | |
| Capacity | 492 litres / 130 Gallons |
| Weight (Empty/Full) | 397 / 1497 lb |
| Manuals | |
| Manuals | |
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Top customer reviews
- 10/10 recommend Asphalt KingdomStarting out I bought my sealcoating equipment through Asphalt Kingdom and don’t regret it at all! Gave me the right equipment I needed to be successful and gave me the confidence to start the journey on my own. 10/10 recommend Asphalt Kingdom
- a 10 out of 10!The people at Asphalt Kingdom are amazing definitely a 10 out of 10 experience getting to know & do business with them.
- No issues since thenWhen they first got the machine, it was leaking really bad, but after tightening the screws on the pump, the machine worked really great and had not had any issues since then. - Leona
The sealer spray systems are self-priming pumps, so as long as your sealer is diluted properly and you have ample sealer in your tank, your sprayer will self-prime. Always make sure that air isn’t sucking into the pump or you will lose prime and your pump will get quite hot potentially compromising the main seal which leads to a leaking pump.
If the sealer is too thick the pump will struggle with a prime as it’s like sucking a thick milkshake through a small straw.
Make sure your sealer is diluted at 20% to 30% at all times.
Check out this related article: priming your spray system.
If you’re using the sealer within the week, it can remain in the tank. Just periodically agitate the material in the tank to prevent it from settling and starting to cure. If you want to remove the sealer from your main tank and store the sealer, we recommend taking off your spray tip and starting your unit up and then pumping the sealer into a drum or separate storage tank. Once this is done, flush your main tank out with water.
You can flush out your spray system by connecting the transfer kit or suction hose to a bucket or drum of water.
Simply turn your unit to Spray mode and spray the sealer back out into the drum or bucket that you got it from originally.
For more details, see this blog post.
Our spray systems work only with Asphalt Emulsion Sealer. If you use: a sealer with sand, or an oil-based sealer, the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair, and you may even blow the engine. If you use the wrong sealer, your warranty is voided in the same way as if you were using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck.
Honda GX160: 0.58 Liter (0.61 US qt, 0.51 Imp qt). SAE 10W-30 is recommended for general use.
Launtop LT210: 0.60 Liter (0.63 US qt, 0.52 Imp qt). SAE 5W-40 mineral oil is recommended for general use.
Always confirm with your engine manual for temperature-specific viscosity guidance.
The 130 gallon system fits in trucks as small as Ford Rangers, Chevy S10's, or any full sized pickup truck.
The 230 gallon system fits in full sized pickup trucks like Ford F150's or larger.
Both systems fit in most trailers.
The 130 (130 Gallon Capacity) = 13,000 square feet (1,207.74 square meters) of coverage.
The 230 (230 Gallon Capacity) = 23,000 square feet (2,136.77 square meters) of coverage.
Watch the Aluminum Pump comparison video to identify which pump system you have.
These systems can be used with specific brands of Asphalt Emulsion sealer. The systems cannot spray sealer with sand. Approved Sealers: Asphalt Emulsion (AE): GemSeal, Sealmaster, and Neyra sealers only without the addition of any latex additives.
We can't guarantee the performance of the systems with other people's sealer because they may add additives that we don't know about that could affect the performance of the pump, hoses, circulation, etc. We use the industry's best-quality sealer and we can assure you that you will not have any issues with it; if you wish to use another brand of sealer please contact the manufacturer to guarantee performance with your spray system.
If a chunk of sealer, a stone, or a rock is blocking the output of the tip, it would create a blockage in the tip that would create a trickle or a pressurized multi-stream spray. Sealer sitting in the tank for a long period of the tank can dry on the side walls and form flakes. These flakes can fall into the rest of the sealer and get suctioned through to your spray tip, causing a blockage.
We heavily advise investing in a filter kit, as it filters out unwanted chunks. See more troubleshooting tips for if you lose pressure at the spray tip.
Pump priming is simple. As long as there is constant liquid reaching the pump, it will prime and pump. The less air in the suction hoses the better the pump will prime and work.
When transferring sealer from drums to the main spray system tank make sure the transfer kit hose is completely full of water. Connect the barrel pipe to the transfer kit and then the other end of the transfer kit to the suction port of the pump and make sure the transfer kit hose remains full of water. Put the barrel pipe into the sealer drum. Make sure the ball valve handles are in transfer mode. Start your motor and begin your transfer.
The pump only needs to be primed the first time you use it or if you haven't used your pump for longer than 24 hours. Use 1 gallon of water in the pump through the pump orifice allows the machine to immediately push that liquid through, creating enough force to start pulling sealer from the tank.
If air is hitting your pump at anytime it will lose prime and the chances of burning up your seals are high. Make sure water or sealer is always reaching your pump.
If the pump is leaking between the engine and the motor, it's usually caused when the pump overheats, due to running the pump dry. The main master seal heats up and shrivels up, creating small cracks. Always make sure you run some kind of liquid in your pump, whether it be sealer or water during priming.
Prime the system at the beginning of the project and as needed. The system can occasionally lose its prime during use.
For portable systems (AK55 and AK275):
- Position the intake hose higher than the pump, then fill the intake hose with water. This helps remove trapped air from the lines and pump.
- Connect the intake hose to the barrel suction pipe for the AK55, or to the tote outlet valve for the AK275.
For tank systems (AK130 and AK230, including Pro versions):
- Unscrew the fill plug located a few inches above the intake valve on the cast iron pump.
- Fill the pump with water until it is filled to the brim, then reinstall and tighten the fill plug.
- Set the system to Recirculation mode, start the system, and run in Recirculation for about 2 to 3 minutes.
- Once primed, switch the system to Spray mode.
- Check that all parts are included and inspect for any shipping damage.
- Assemble the unit per the manual.
- Test the system with water first to check for leaks and get familiar with operation.
- A few water droplets at fittings can be normal during a water test because water is thinner than sealer. Once you run sealer, it typically seals small gaps naturally. If you see a steady drip or spray, tighten the connection and re-test.
- When: Flush the system after each job, before the sealer can dry in the lines.
- How: Run clean water with a mild detergent through the pump, hose, and spray wand until it runs clear.
- Why: This removes leftover material that can cause clogs, premature wear, and damage to internal pump components.
You get this when the sealer is too thick and the pump cannot create a prime to circulate the sealer. Dilute it properly to achieve 20 to 30% water dilution.
Use a dipstick to check the level of your sealer at the end of the day and the next time you use your system, just in case of water evaporation (if the levels are different, add enough water to regain the previous sealer level).
Another possible reason could involve the system's ball valve. On the output part of the pump, there's a ball valve that allows you to redirect the sealer to the top of the tank or to the spray gun. If that ball valve is constantly or permanently broken to the spray gun, you wouldn't get recirculation.
We recommend that you have the filter "pointing" down, that way gravity will help move particulates out of the way of the main flow.
The filter connects to the output port of the pump, and then your spray hose connects to the filter kit. Steps on how to assemble the Filter Kit:
- Insert filter into main valve, close camlocks, insert cotter pins
- Insert spray hose into other end of filter, close camlocks, insert cotter pins.
Watch the step by step videos on how to replace the seal for your specific pump.
- Aluminum Pump - version 1 (before June 2024)
Watch the step-by-step videos below to replace the pump seal for your specific pump.