The newly redesigned AK130 Residential Sealcoating Machine includes everything you need in one place to effectively and efficiently mix and spray coal tar asphalt sealcoat on any asphalt surface. This improved version features our proprietary quick-connect fittings: there is no machine on the market as easy to assemble and disassemble, service or maintain!
This machine features balanced engine power to pump pressure that gives you the optimum spray pressure while maximizing the life of your engine.
It's extremely easy to operate and includes a bulletproof steel sealcoat tank with either an aluminum or a cast iron sealcoat pump, 50 feet of hose high quality 3/4" sealer hose, spray gun and all fittings that you need to have a turnkey sealcoating machine.
It mounts easily in the back of a van, pickup truck or trailer. We recommend a floor space area of approximately 6 feet by 4 feet to install it properly. So, it’s really up to you as to how you transport it. Always remember that if you’re mounting it in an enclosed area, you always want to make sure that the doors or open and ventilating properly.
Whether you're an asphalt maintenance contractor or you're looking at maintaining your own parking lot, the AK130 will definitely get the job done professionally.
Our goal was to build an affordable sprayer with reliability and performance that you can count on. We made it happen. It’s all because of valuable feedback and advice from our wonderful customers. We soaked in the advice, had an in house engineer spend over 22 months designing and developing it.
Steel Sealcoating Tank: 130 gallon steel construction with precise welds that have all been leak tested, High quality black paint to protect the steel, 13,000 square feet of coverage with each full tank. That's twenty-one 600 square foot driveways (4-car driveways). You can earn $2,000 to $2,500 on each full tank of asphalt sealcoat
Low Oil Shutdown: This feature alone puts you miles ahead of the competition: if your low gets too low, your engine will automatically shut down, preventing costly damage.
Optional Cast Iron Pump With Viton Seals: Base model ships with an aluminum pump or upgrade to the cast iron pump. Rugged and built to last. Pumps at a rate of 225 gallons per-minute. The pump will circulate the sealer at fast speeds to keep the sealer mixed in the tank properly. Will also spray sealer out of the spray gun at 45psi.
Sealer Spray Hose: 50-foot rubber hose designed to take the use and abuse of dragging across asphalt surfaces without springing leaks.
Ball Valve Gun: 6' long heavy duty ball valve gun. Allows for more accurate control of your sealer application.
Quick Connect Tips: Includes 3 Quick Connect Tips 2,3 and 4 gallons-per-minute. Replace your spray tips/nozzles without using a tool and keep your spray fan optimized at all times. Simply replace tips using your hands. Fast and easy.
Large Double-closed Man Way Top Lid: Easy to access the inside of your tank for cleaning, transferring or troubleshooting, and prevents sealer from splashing out during transport.
Loading Port: Allows you to transfer sealer from drums, totes, or other sealer sources to your main spray system tank with the use of our add-on transfer kit.
Skid Mounted: Solid eleven gauge skid base with a hole drilled in each of the four corners for mounting to your truck bed or trailer.
Do you want to know how much profit you can make with your sealcoating machine? You can make back the money from this system investment with less than 2 full tanks!
Call us to place your sealcoating machine order or to get expert advice from our experienced asphalt maintenance experts. Toll Free 1-866-399-5562
|Launtop Engine||Launtop LT210 7.0HP Four-Stroke Engine with Low Oil Shutdown, Recoil Start|
|Honda Engine||Honda GX160 5.5HP Four-Stroke Engine with Low Oil Shutdown, Recoil Start|
|Cast Iron Pump||
|Dimensions||51.5" L x 33.75" W x 40" H|
|Weight (empty)||350lbs (aluminum pump)
375 lbs (cast iron pump)
|Weight (full)||1850lbs (aluminum pump)
1875lbs (cast iron pump)
|Manuals||Download the AK130 Manual
Why do Mechanical Seals Fail?
1 Year Limited Warranty
Mixing and Transferring Sealer Into Your Sprayer
Preparing Your System For Sealcoating
Pump priming is simple. As long as there is constant liquid reaching the pump, it will prime and pump. The less air in the suction hoses the better the pump will prime and work.
When transferring sealer from drums to the main spray system tank make sure the transfer kit hose is completely full of water. Connect the barrel pipe to the transfer kit and then the other end of the transfer kit to the suction port of the pump and make sure the transfer kit hose remains full of water. Put the barrel pipe into the sealer drum. Make sure the ball valve handles are in transfer mode. Start your motor and begin your transfer.
If air is hitting your pump at anytime it will lose prime and the chances of burning up your seals are high. Make sure water or sealer is always reaching your pump.
Our spray systems work only with Refined Coal Tar (Commercial Grade) Water-Based Sealer. We strongly recommend Gem Seal asphalt sealer and that can be purchased at the lowest possible rate right through our website here at AsphaltKingdom.com. If you use an "Asphalt Emulsion" sealer, a sealer with "sand", or an "oil" based sealer, the spray system will not work: the pump will need repair and you may even blow the engine. If you use the wrong sealer your warranty is voided in the same way as using diesel fuel in a gasoline engine for your truck. PLEASE CALL US IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT TYPE OF SEALER TO USE WITH THIS SYSTEM.
If a chunk of sealer, a stone, or a rock is blocking the output of the tip, it would create a blockage in the tip that would create a trickle or a pressurized multi-stream spray. Sealer sitting in the tank for a long period of the tank can dry on the side walls and form flakes. These flakes can fall into the rest of the sealer and get suctioned through to your spray tip, causing a blockage.
We heavily advise investing in a filter kit, as it filters out unwanted chunks. See more troubleshooting tips for if you lose pressure at the spray tip.
This usually happens when the pump overheats, due to running the pump dry. The main master seal heats up and shrivels up, creating small cracks. Always make sure you run some kind of liquid in your pump, whether it be sealer or water during priming.
Any standard 4-stroke motor oil (like 10W30) for lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc. can be used.
The pump only needs to be primed the first time you use it or if you haven't used your pump for longer than 24 hours. Use 1 gallon of water in the pump through the pump orifice allows the machine to immediately push that liquid through, creating enough force to start pulling sealer from the tank.
This usually happens due to the tip clogging or tip is worn out past a usable point. Buy new spray tips and invest in a filter kit to prevent clogged spray tips.
Sealer is too thick and the pump cannot create a prime to circulate the sealer. Dilute it properly to achieve 20 to 30% water dilution. Use a dipstick to check the level of your sealer at the end of the day and the next time you use your system, just in case of water evaporation (if the levels are different, add enough water to regain the previous sealer level).
Another possible reason could involve the system's ball valve. On the output part of the pump, there's a ball valve that allows you to redirect the sealer to the top of the tank or to the spray gun. If that ball valve is constantly or permanently broken to the spray gun, you wouldn't get recirculation.
The cause of this is overagitating the sealer. Only recirculate your sealer for 2-3 minutes max at the beginning of the day and maybe for a minute at the beginning of each job.
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